Colombian · meal
Chicken ajiaco
Bogotá's ajiaco worked out without potato: the cauliflower falls apart against the spoon and thickens the broth the way papa criolla used to, and the squash puts in the yellow. The guascas are what make it ajiaco and not chicken soup.

Why this one and not another
Forty minutes of pot in an order that takes no rearranging: the chicken comes out when the vegetables go in, and the guascas go in three minutes before you kill the heat. It's one of the two dishes in this book that use guascas, and the one that justifies buying the little bag: two tablespoons per pot, and what's left over covers the other one.
Where it comes from
Ajiaco is from Bogotá and not from all of Colombia: on the coast nobody eats it, and what gets sold under that name outside the country is usually chicken soup with potato. What makes it ajiaco is the guascas —without them it's exactly that, chicken soup— and what makes it bogotano is three different potatoes: papa criolla, yellow and small, which falls apart and thickens, and two others that stay in chunks. None of the three is left here: cauliflower crushed against the wall of the pot does the thickening and the squash puts in the yellow the papa criolla gave. The cream and the capers do stay, and they go to the table and not into the pot, which is how they're served down there.
1Ingredients and how to prep them
- Chicken breast1 lb
Whole, not cut up. It cooks inside the broth and gets shredded.
- Guascas2 tbsp
Dried, in a little bag. Without them this is chicken soup, not ajiaco.
- Cauliflower3 cups of florets
Small florets. Half of it is going to fall apart on purpose: that's what thickens.
- Squash2 cups
In cubes. Here it stands in for papa criolla: it gives the yellow and it falls apart.
- Scallions2 stalks
Finely chopped. If you can't find them, thick scallions or half a white onion.
- Chicken broth4 cups
—
- Garlic2 cloves
—
- Heavy cream2 tbsp
For the table, not for the pot.
- Capers1 tbsp
Drained and rinsed. Also for the table.
- Avocado1 whole
Sliced, as you serve.
- Cilantro1 handful
—
- Salt and pepperto taste
—
2Steps
In this order. The box on each step is the specific pitfall: what goes wrong there and why.
- 1
Start the broth with the chicken cold
4 minWhole breast, cold broth, garlic and half the green onion in the pot. Bring the heat up until it barely shivers.

- 2
Skim the foam before it breaks up
3 minAs soon as the broth starts to move a gray foam rises. Take it off with a spoon and throw it out.

- 3
Cauliflower and squash into the broth
14 minThe florets and the squash cubes, covered, at a gentle simmer. Toward the end crush part of the cauliflower against the wall of the pot.
- 4
Pull the chicken out and shred it
6 minTake it out the moment it's done, not at the end. Shred it with two forks while it's still too hot to hold.

- 5
The guascas, three minutes and done
4 minRub them between your hands over the pot, put the lid on and kill the heat at three minutes.
- 6
Put the chicken back and build the bowls
5 minThe shredded chicken into the pot, the cilantro over the top. The cream, the capers and the avocado on the table.
3If something goes wrong
- The broth came out clear and thin
Why: The cauliflower went to the table whole and nobody crushed it.
What to do: Mash a cup of cauliflower against the wall of the pot and give it five more minutes. What thickens this ajiaco is the vegetable falling apart, not flour.
- It doesn't taste like ajiaco
Why: Old guascas, too few, or boiled half an hour.
What to do: Two tablespoons rubbed between your hands and only three minutes in the pot, with the lid on.
- The chicken came out in dry chunks
Why: It boiled hard, or it stayed in until the end.
What to do: A shivering simmer, and out of the pot the moment it's done. It goes back into the broth as you serve.
This recipe is one of the meals in the plan
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